After long time we meet in really strong line-up and therefore we select an ascent of famous mountain of Wallis Alp - Lyskamm. If we decide for the ascent direct from village Tschaval, we can await really lonely trip till the saddle Passo di Betolina. This five days long affair should be one of the most ..., what we have ever done. I can say that all presumption were fullfiled.

FASTIDIOUS ASCENT TO COTTAGE

We arrive to the centre Tschaval arround 7 am. There also short rest follows, because of 1250 km long tiring way. We leave our car on upper carpark arround midnoon and start the way  no. 1 along the river Lys up. We immediately can recognize, that the way will not be only walking over flowers fields but fastidious ascent. We  stand up very sheer and after short time we already chat by small waterfall, where we also fullfill our bottles. This we later find precocious, because much water is along all the way up. Thin path continues easier and in few switchbacks overcome grassy step, which finishes as far as chalets A. Betolina - 2380 asl. You can find real paradise for alp flower's lovers here. Tufts of it grows allaround. Suunny green fields shines with all colors and Wallis giants appear.   Glacier Ghiacciaio del Lys is unrivalled from here and its surroundings controls of his wild majesty. Close to cottage Bettolina attend to orientation. To find right direction could be found not so easy (it leads to the left side of the cottage, the path is not well-trodden). This we of course found until te way back, so the way up we pass over uncomfortable stony dry valley.  Miraculous attaching to footpath leads us to pretty mountain lake, which is suitable for small brake. The outlooks are beautiful from here. It is last 150 metre to the saddle. The path leads over several snow fields from the saddle and it is well modifiied, becasue many people step from funicular from the saddle Bättaforko. Little sheerer we stand up to the edge, which is funny belayed about 4cm wide rope. This footpath leads close under cottage Rif. Quintino Sella - 3585 asl.   

COTTAGE QUINTINO SELLA

The cottage is quite large and easily can accommodate even 140 lodger. You cannot find here drinkable waterspring even warm shower.  This comfort we must unfortunately forgive up on high nearly 3600 metre. Water you can get only in package 1.5 litre/ 2.5 EUR. The cost for lager position for Alpenverein members is 10.5 EUR/night. To cook some meal it is possible in winterraum, not in the cottage. Heating is downstairs in the restaurant only, so you cannot await warm environment in upper stairs especially direct under the roof. But this cold climate local cover easily solve.  There is also no sense to carry sleepingbag to the cottage with.

ASCENT OF CASTORE WAS EXTREME

On next morning we set out during extremely strong wind ( in stroke about 100km/h ) to Lyskamm.  In respect of dominating weather we are on the glacier Felik alone.   The glacier leads gently as far as below summit Punta Perazzi - 3905 asl.,  where we meet couple on return  from saddle.  After talk it is clear, why they turned.  Pavement over glacier continues below very sheer perhaps 150 one-metre stand to the saddle Felikjoch - 4061 asl.  Extreme wind in the saddle and dense mist give us brightly out,  who's mister here.  After short decision making and several eternal arguing, what is the right direction, we set on the way to Castore. Ascent of Lyskamm in these weather condition and zero visibility would be gambling.  First we step up snow slope (circa 25°) to in face of-summit Punta Felik - 4176 asl. and after short descent also on its summit over relatively sharp edge.  Be care of the wind!  Again descent perhaps 20 metre and succeed ascent edgeways to Castore - 4228 asl.  At zero visibility and 100km /hour wind there's no sense in too procrastinate,  so "relish"  cigarette,  snuff out by hand and swallow dog-end ( so that we do not contaminate local funicular chastity nature ) and set-out back the same way.  Two-times we are nearly blow of the edge,  such that sporadically past all four limbs we get to saddle Felikjoch and tedious descent after glacier,  which is already thorough soak, we descent to the cottage. Many people arrive to the cottage during whole day (99.9 % go by funicular to Battaforko). Full of experience and thoroughly chilled we soon fall asleep with vision of better weather tomorrow.

FINAL - LYSKAMM IS GAINED AT LAST

Weather forecast was fullfilled and it is absolute day-light in the morning,  excellent visibility and near cottages light wind. We wake up at 5:00, when majority of people is already afoot and loaded in the dressing room they  try to be first on the glacier.  But ours policy is other. We get a breakfast, pack necessities, do all our morning needs and go out to have a look outside the cottage.  Line figures on glacier Felikjoch leave us about cool.  We are confident of our achievement-blade.  We start pretty in a snappish way. Several group we advance already on mild flat glazed frost,  another after it in face of sheer stand to the saddle.  There we've in face of us only two climbers,  who aim to morning sun exposed Lyskamm. We go then ahead his famous edge.  First very gently we surmount glacier to a saddle ( without scratches ) and step on in face of-summit called fine melodious Sudwestgrat schneekuppe - 4214 asl. That we traverse and later trite trace stand out to some saddle ( scratch ) below western edge.  Ascent otherwise broad but exceedingly sheer ( 40° ) hard firn is questions of drumsticks, hose-tops and confused sense. High of this slope is 220 metre. With a number of rest we get the slope behind us and slowly and all the time very steeply ascend vertical edge.  That is on several places very narrow. Rises on both sides take breath.  1100 metre heigh,  ice armour northern side falls to the left side.  Southwards again 500 metre snowy rockies. The more we are close to western summit,  the wider  and more safe the edge is. After 3 hours of superfast gait we are on the west summit Lyskamm - 4480 asl.  Passage to the East summit is very exposed and dangerous ( AD and III.UIAA ).  Phantom Matterhorn - 4478m with its heavy neighbour Dent d'Herens, himalayas Dent Blanche - 4357m, invincible Weisshorn - 4506m, fascinating height massif Monte Rosa  nobly present from the summit, where blowing roughly fifty kilometers speed wind. On the other side southwards is exquisite group Gran Paradiso - La Grivola, beyond Monte Viso and westwards massif Mont Blanc, nearly concurrent with spread wall of many tops of Grand Combin. After 20 minutes alternative group of the three alpinist arrives, that is why we decide slowly and carefully to go down. It is frost and icy wind blows. Descent we lead the same way like up.  From saddle Felikjoch we exaggerate again several groups decreasing from Castor.

DESCENT FROM COTTAGES LOOKED LIKE VISIT OF HYPERMARKET

We arrive considerably dashed and played out to the cottage.  We take a rest only for necessary time for cooking and packing. Descent from cottages we do absolutely the same way likke two days before.  Gigantic even directly breath stoping rush of people croak us above the saddle Bettolina, who different age ( sometimes and enough advanced ), sex and trained pull to the cottages. We practically cannot swerve them during fast downhill through wet snow. The sun burns and next group of 20 people rising often in sandal to the cottage absorb us in the saddle Bettolina.  Descent from saddle is already questions of 2 hours as far as the village Tschaval ( Staffal or Staval).  After short rest and descent of over 2700 meter we depart holding direction Gressoney - Milano - St. Moritz - Praha - Liberec home. I also must mention fine stop for bath and relax by the lake Lago di Como, which we reached in 30° warmth. Brilliant water, no less exquisite Italian girls and surrounding palm let us almost forget, that we frost on height 4480 asl. on the top of Lyskamm few hours before and now we are having bath in 300 asl. So like that can be proceeded our 5 days taking visit of Waliss Alp, that have left us deep impression.

NOTICE :

If we can advise, lay out yourself staying on cottage and ascent for weekday ( Friday is limit ). You have no chance to habe vacancy in the cottage without reservation during weekend. You also must count with crowded ways everywhere over weekend.  There is no drinkable water, you cannot also charge your mobile phone and there is not heated on the cottage. 40° slope below western summit Lyskamm is past optimum conditions safe but very sheer.  The edge is optimal to pass when the snow is hard.  At new snow acute danger of avalanches and slide slab.  About 14 people reached summit Lyskamm the same day. Most of people go to the saddle Felikjoch or to Castore. Ascent to the cottage took us by the slow walk about 7 hours. Ascent and descent to Castore 5 hours, ascent to Lyskamm 3 hours and very fast descent as far as the valley 5 hours.

this expedition was supported :

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