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MONTE SCHIARA Voyage begins high above italian town Belluno, in the car park in the area Case Bortot. We go on unexpectedly down the hill. Across the Bridge Ponte del Mariano, where we start rise. Plenty of water is everywhere. We overcome clean stream on several places. Vehement switchbacks start below cottage and because we have heavy bags, the schwitchbags are knocking-down. Rifugio 7°Alpini is pretty brick outhouse with very friendly staffs. It's in highs 1502 asl ( above sea level ) and directly below southern wall of Monte Schiary. Heliport is above the cottage, where we pass the night at. Even this day after lunch we set-out on trial ferrat Sperti. But after 100 meter of uncontrolled creep 2.UIAA we recognize, that we don't go on the way and that somehow rope belaying is missing. Trouble again... After about 30 minutes of searching the way we go right. Easy belaying is as far as bivouac Sperti - 2000 asl. Ferrat's boost begins behind bivouac in wall. Some passage and one travers are quite airy. Way ends in saddle below Puta Tissi - 2280 asl. But to creep there is not advisable, because the ground is ugly broken and way does not go there, how it is wrong drawn in map. Descent in the same way. Unfortunately Jirka and Goose turned from health reason upon bivouac. Passing the night on heliport was OK. It is the plane and water flows from tap near cottage. We set out on advised 8 hours on way Zacchi, Berti and Marmol in the morning. But first we have to achieve lapidary formation Gate in wall. Here creep begins in vertical line to the top of Gate perpendicular protection about 50 metres above ground. Over ladder, cramp iron and steps we reach to crossroad of ways Zacchi and Marmol. We go first and harder of them. It is exceedingly long ( 1,5hour ) and here and there relatively physical exacting ( especially when you think of experience from yesterday). The way leads along perpendicular edge about 150 metres to the end and in one place is even 4 metres overhanging ladder. Zacchi is very amusing and isn't for beginner. It comes to saddle - 2320 asl. near tower Gusela del Vescova - 40 metres. Visible even from Belluno!!! Here is also bivouac Bernardina for 6 men. Further untiring heavy as well as in one place overhanging way Berti continues. After about 30 minutes of creep we are in the ascendent close to 3 metre high cross. It is bright but foggy. We see Marmolada, Pelmo, Antelao and Cimon de la Pala. Descent we lead along edge eastwards - it is sharp enough and two people get round only with problems there. After time it is going to be flat. Way Marmol is at first simple descent, which changes max. to medium-difficulty to the end of traverse, but very pretty trace. After arrival to the cottage we even set out the way to the car. It though isn't without consequence. Total daily superelevation is big and feet and knees of many members works verbatim said on last power. This solving I can not recommend. During the way down it is not possible to pass the night anywhere, because of sheer ground. Departure to the Belluno and home was infinite.
this expedition was supported :
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