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PALLA BIANCA Hamlet Melag is the point of departure this time. Melag lies at the end of road leading through valley Vallelunga. A large parking is situated here. Way from there is broad and goes along stream Karlinbach as far as bigger bridge. It turns to the left uphill here. We follow mild sinuous road and later already almost straight achive cottages Weisskugelhütte - 2542 above sea level (asl). Way to the cottage takes 2 hours by easy walk. There is a small lake and trap of signal of mobile rush bellow the cottage. Cottage hasn't witerraum, that is why we used to oversleep in tent. The way to the top begins paradoxical by (142 meter) descent on already icy moraine of glazier Langtauferer Ferner. We continue perhaps 30 minutes, till there's the real sense to put on climbing irons and tie together on rope. Glacier was very few snow covered on December and due to this fact it was more dangerous. After at first mild and safe introduction, we achive large breaks and half snowy cracks about latitude till 7 metre. Group what went the day before us, gave up theirs stray just on this place. After about 20 minutes we found the way crossing few certain bridges. The more we are closer to saddle Weisskugeljoch the steeper glacier is. Though it's just troublefree business. Saddle is windy and beautiful views are out of it. It is still long way to the top from this point. Do not continue the way during fog or decreased visibility! We have to hit small saddle on the edge directly in front of us, that is roughly in in the same level. From here we sink perhaps 40 meters, go arroud rockies from left side and stand up over glacier Hintereis Ferner a little harder to the saddle Hintereisjoch - 3460 asl. Here we turn rapidly to the north-west and continue mild slope till to take-up of the glacy point in front of the top . This is inclined about 30° and depending on conditions is necessity to have climbing-irons. This is frequent place of avalanches during big snow amount, though it is130 metre altitudinal. After we pass this hurdle, we go slow slope sized about hectare to expressive snow edge, that is relatively blown of. Thereby we reach the key place of climb. This is rocky vertical edge in longitude about 150 metre and with climb of II.UIAA. If it is snowless and no-frostbitten, than experienced highlander will have no problem, if it is snowy, than it will be very dangerous place. There is inevitable cross and absolutely royal view of Ortleru, Bernina, Presanella, Dolomite till all closer Austrian range in the top. Descent we led like the way up, though 3/4 of glacier we already went in the dark. Trace aim from cottages Bellavista on opposite parties of massif is lighter and more safety. The ways concur in one in Hintereisjoch saddle. RECOMMENDATION : Difficultness of the way over Langtauferer Ferner is given by quantity of snow on glacier. In the middle of glazed frost is zone of serious gaps, which is necessity overcome and undersnow also find! Vertical edge is II.UIAA. Behind mist, or another slush or decreased visibility definitely no-get on the way. At ideal conditions on summers it is about 5-6 hours to summit from cottages. We went the trace in winter during 8hour up and 4 hour down !!! In fact it is trace for experienced mauntainer with glacier's equipment and first of all knowledge how to handle with it. this expedition was supported with : |
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